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The Mariposa Blog

Tuesday, February 21, 2012

In keeping with the recent sunscreen data them, we wanted to share some interesting facts and details from our chemits.  Enjoy!

What’s all the buzz about sunscreens?  Can I afford them in my product line?  Could my line benefit from adding sunscreens?  What’s new and exciting in the old product class?

History:

  • First sunscreen developed in Germany in 1938.
  • First sunscreen in U.S.A. developed by a pharmacist in 1944.
  • We have come a long way; from greasy Vaseline like formulas to today’s esthetically elegant cream and lotions.

Benefits:

  • Helps reduce risk of skin cancer for today’s sun worshippers.
  • Sunscreens with UVA protection help protect the skin from the especially pernicious skin cancer melanoma.
  • Helps reduce the incidence of age spots from the sun’s damage to the skin.
  • Generally reduce UV damage to the sensitive biological molecules in the skin such as DNA.

Regulatory/Costs:

  • The FDA at last published its long awaited ruling on sunscreens in June of 2011.
  • With the new ruling sunscreen SPF validation has become much more reasonable; for example, validation of a sunscreen which is marketed in the U.S. which makes the following claims: SPF, UVA broad spectrum, and highly water-resistant now costs less than $5,000.
  • It makes sense to formulate products with broad spectrum UVA claims, since without such a claim the following statement must be on the label “Skin Cancer/Skin Aging Alert [in bold font]: Spending time in the sun increases your risk of skin cancer and early skin aging.  This product has been shown only to help prevent sunburn, not [in bold font] skin cancer or early skin aging.”  Another reason is that the cost of testing is quite reasonable.

Exciting new ingredients and formulation strategies:

  • Although there is not much new in the actual range of sunscreen chemicals, there is much to talk about with regard to the other formulation components.
  • A liposome based upon safflower oil which has been shown in preliminary testing to boost the effectiveness of the UV absorbers in formulations.  Additionally, these liposomes give excellent moisture without the greasy/oily feel which is commonly associated with sunscreens and reduce the amount of emulsifiers needed for stable formulations.
  • Water resistant agents based upon natural pine, rather than the old PVP copolymers.
  • New actives which can be added to formulas for added benefits such as:
    • Anti-aging
    • Skin lightening
    • Age spot reduction
    • Dark circle reduction
    • Skin tightening and toning
    • Pore size reduction
    • Stretch mark reduction
    • Tightening of sagging neckline in folks over 60
    • Facial contouring/double chin reduction
    • Lip plumping
    • The combinations are almost endless… let your marketing imagination roam

We are ready to formulate your special sunscreen which is suited perfectly to your target market.

Rick Bruen- Cosmetic Chemist

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